Thursday, April 26, 2012

The best breakfast in Footscray

I'm loving our two new cafes, but it's time to take it back to the old school.  This is a no baked eggs zone.  No microbrew lattes.  No smashed avocado - unless it's in a Vietnamese smoothie with heaps of condensed milk.

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This plate of love is called banh cuon and it's amazing.  At the bottom are fresh rice flour crepes, filled with minced pork and mushrooms and rolled up.  The translucent rolls are topped with stacks of fresh, crunchy bean sprouts and herbs, while a smooth Vietnamese pork sausage (or cha lua) croons back-up harmonies.  In the wings is a banh cong, a type of deep-fried glutinous rice flour muffin full of earthy whole mung beans.  Drown it all with heaps of seasoned, sweet fish sauce.  A refreshing, satisfying breakfast, with golden crunchy muffin, lightly savoury beans, rich pork in slippery rice pancake and a riot of salad crunch on top.

Lagenda and June 033

Dinh Son, an unassuming, very traditional cafe at the edge of Little Saigon market, is your purveyor of fine banh cuon.  It's not on the menu so you have to know to ask for it (they understand my mangled Vietnamese, so you should be right.  I say "banh kwon with everything" which does the job).

Lagenda and June 042

On weekends you can sometimes catch the ladies making the crepes on a little stove near the front counter, filling each delicate crepe with pork mixture and teasing it gently from the blackened frypan.

Oh, and did I mention it is EIGHT BUCKS?  Yes.

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I don't think this bakery in Little Saigon Market is new, but it's had a bit of a revamp.  They only seemed to do cakes before (including naturally purple Swiss rolls made with yams) but now have banh mi (Vietnamese rolls).  We grabbed two breadsticks, a banh mi Nha Trang (60 cents) and a banh mi Ha Noi (80 cents).  The Ha Noi version was particularly good, with a kind of crackle on top.

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On the hunt for the elusive single golden pagoda rice wine, which is the only one to buy apparently.  You will often see these in the Asian grocers of Footscray - boxed shirts, "luxury goods" sets and even 3D shoes, all made entirely of paper.  They're for burning at funerals so that the dead can take their goods to the afterlife.

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Really??  A noodle box joint in Footscray (Nicholson Street Mall).  Because there is obviously a lack of cheap, good noodles in Footscray.  OK...

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My favourite place - the Yen Huot Gift Shop on Paisley Street, which a reader once told me they call "the Emporium".  Every imaginable thing is for sale here, from toys like the Barbie-esque "Benign Girl" to plastic kids bottles that look ripe for a recall.  I swear each time they get a new delivery, they just scatter the new stock on top of the old.  I wouldn't be surprised if there was an entire Vietnamese grandma and accompanying shopping cart entombed under a cascade of crappy toys.  It's so disorganised but everyone shops there, the proprietors are lovely and there's no better place to buy my gas stove lighters ($1.50) and bobby pins and hair elastics (like, $1, compared to Coles' outrageous $5 or more prices for 10 stingy hair ties).

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Quick pit stop at the halal butcher for fresh lamb, $7.50/kg for minced and if I recall correctly, $10 for diced.  Other butchers can be double these prices.  Which halal butcher?  Why, the halal butcher right next to the Club X and "Ram Lounge".  Only in Footscray!  (Cnr of Irving and Nicholson, if you're not sure.)

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What's this?  Another new Footscray cafe!  This is Konjo Cafe, and the owners have an original restaurant in Collingwood.

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The coffee they use is Djimma from Ethiopia.  They're only doing coffee at this stage but have a few bikkies on offer too.

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The milk wasn't as silky and luscious as it should ideally be, but the underlying flavour of the Djimma blend or variety was sweet, well balanced and delicious.

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OOH!  That's exciting.  Please tell me it's lunch time already?!

***

A new blog you should add to your reading list is "Krapow" by Andy and Tina, who are very knowledgeable about Thai and Vietnamese food.  As well as unearthing some winning "secret" Asian eateries in the CBD, they're extremely passionate about Footscray.  For starters check out their wrap of the New Year Festival, Vietnamese snacks in Footscray, and $5 crab from Dinh Son.  And at risk of losing my opportunity to win it, also check out their (non-sponsored, non-PR) Meera Freeman cookbook giveaway!


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41 comments:

  1. Love the misspelling of Foostrcay in the Noodle in a Box ad. Banh cuon sounds great.

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    1. I didn't even see that! Good spotting JD. It's that ill-fated site on the Mall that was that glamour photographer and before that maybe a bed linen shop. I don't hold high hopes but always happy to be proven wrong.

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  2. Haha, Foostcray.
    We know The Emporium as "Footscray Fabrics", amusing because fabrics are the only item on earth not sold there. Is the Fabrics sign no longer there? I'll have to check...

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    1. Yes Amy they stickered over it! I loved that Footscray Fabrics sign. You can see the "G Mobile" sticker peeling off it in the pic above.

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  3. I love banh cuon for breakfast! As a kid, it was a special treat, because we only got it delivered up with the restaurant supplies to Swan Hill once a month or so. Thanh Tam over in Victoria St, Richimond does a great version, but I haven't tried any around Footscray yet. Thanks for the tip!

    Also, I was wanting to write something about the impending Noodle In A Box. It's a worrying state of affairs, I think; although it's probably Chinese run, to me it heralds a dumbing down of cuisine in the area, much like the entrenchment of KFC, Subway or Nando's in the area. Is the beginning of a slippery slope, or am I just overreacting?

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    1. Regarding Noodle Box - Footscray really is to me two steps forward, one step back. Something great and new will arrive and I get excited, then something ridiculous will pop up and I worry for the suburb's future. EG, the ginormous (and now failed) buffet restaurant and the ill-fated fried chicken and "Coffee Run" place near the tram stop on Leeds (which then became the FLY sandwich bar - mmm, fly sandwiches, yum - that never even seemed to open). I think in the end good will triumph (or maybe I've been watching too much Game of Thrones) - by which I mean, crap places will fall over and die. The Vaseline-lens glamour photographer didn't last long there either.

      That said, if they opened a Maccas or a KFC right there, I don't think that would fall over in a month and two and it would be a HUGE detriment to the mall.

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  4. Do you know when Little Saigon is going to be demolished?

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    1. No I don't anon... They have to start within 2 years of last November or so or the planning permit will expire. Here's hoping it will only add, not take away.

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  5. Thanks, my thoughts exactly. It will be a shame to see it go in its present form.

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  6. Nooooooooo! I didn't know about the Little Saigon demolition!
    That will be a very very sad day.

    Thankyou so much for the link Lauren, I really appreciate it.
    If it wasn't for you, my parents would probably still be the only people who read krapow.

    We love Dinh Son Quan, the lady at the counter with the gorgeous heavy makeup is so friendly and tolerant of my sad efforts to order in Vietnamese.

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    1. It's my pleasure Andy! Yes, she's lovely isn't she. You are much more adventurous with the food there than I am - I have to start exploring the really traditional stuff in the bain marie more.

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  7. I am (quite loudly) moaning the lack of good Viet food in Adelaide as I read this. It was a sad day when I had the first bowl of pho that I cannot stomach. Didn't realise how strong my love for (good ) viet food was till I moved away from my own local of Springvale!

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    1. Aw Celeste what a bummer! I sometimes daydream about moving to the country, but then I know I couldn't handle being far from Vietnamese food.

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  8. Looks so bloody good! I want some! Why is it on the other side of town to me??!! *moans*

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  9. Omg I am SO coming here for the banh cuon brekkie before a shopping trip at the market. It just makes more sense to have a true Viet breakfast when in the area, doesn't it? Djimma's coffee sounds great too!

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    1. Absolutely! And a true Vietnamese lunch, and snacks...now I am craving banh mi!

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    2. If you are having a true Viet brekkie then you really should also have a Viet Iced Coffee (cafe sua da)! I recommend joining the group of elderly Vietnamese men at the cafe near the Leeds st entrance to the Footscray Market, although Dinh Son Quan will also happily make one for you.

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    3. Leeds St entrance?? Which cafe is that, Ba Le?

      The iced coffees at the Footscray Market congee stall are good, IIRC.

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    4. Lauren, you got me there. I can't remember what the cafe is called. For whatever reason I'm always attracted to the ones that have a group of elderly Vietnamese men sitting around drinking coffee, smoking and chatting away. I really admire their sense of community. Although I have no idea what they're talking about I like to sit and enjoy my coffee and pretend I'm relaxing back on holiday in Saigon.

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  10. The Saigon Market demolition is news and a bombshell for me. Can anyone tell me more or provide some links? Is there going to be a replacement?

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    1. See links below Kenny. The market is still going to be there, with apartments on top. I hope that because it is the current owner redeveloping the space, it won't be as horrible as if a new developer bought it and decided to redesign the whole thing.

      We will just have to sit tight and hope it doesn't lose too much of its character.

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  11. I am always amazed at you and especially your kids wide taste in Vietnamese cuisine. My nephew and nieces struggle to eat when it comes to Vietnamese food.

    Like everyone else its news to me regarding little saigon. Here is 2 articles I was able to find.

    http://designbuildsource.com.au/big-redevelopment-for-little-melbourne-market-icon
    http://www.maribyrnongweekly.com.au/news/local/news/general/70-million-plan-for-notsolittle-saigon/2368122.aspx

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    1. Gosh, and I think I'm a bit of a lightweight really because I won't/can't eat offal which cuts out a big portion of Vietnamese soups in particular! My kids are funny - they actually think sandwiches are exotic. When you ask them what they want for lunch, they scream SANDWICHES! because they never get them - usually being made to eat mum's weird noodles or curries!

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  12. Thank you for a great intro to Footscray for the uninitiated! As a fairly new Melbourner, I am still getting to know this town. We went for a wander and a shop, and ate as per your recommendation. The waitress described the dish we ordered as "good. my restaurant is famous for this", which was good enough for us! Good all round! : )

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    1. Anon, that's wonderful! I'm so glad you had a nice day out in Footers and enjoyed the banh cuon!

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  13. Good tip on the banh cuon...I have been wanting to try this combination plate for a while but never figured out how to order it.

    I had it for lunch today, and as suggested, the lady at the front counter was great. I just pointed at the bahn cuon rolls, and asked for them as combination. She gave me a smile as if quite a few people have been ordering it lately, and knew what I meant. It was lovely...just as you promised. Although, for breakfast in Footscray, it is tough competition against a few Olympic donuts or some Cavallaro and Sons ricotta canoli and coffee. This Banh cuon plate might instead be a new regular lunch for me.

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    1. Phwoaar, Olympic donuts for brekky?! Hell yes! I'm glad you liked the banh cuon Andrew!

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  14. Thanks for this post Lauren. I followed in your footsteps to Dinh Son Quan on Saturday. Couldn't remember the name but recognised the interior from your photo. The banh cuon 'with everything' was spectacular; definitely my new breakfast of choice. My six-year-old also gave the crispy chicken and rice the thumbs up. But I'm very concerned re: demolition plans for Little Saigon - my go-to place when I need a fix of SE Asia.

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    1. Excellent to hear Angela! And yes, many of us will be watching the redevelopment closely.

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  15. I go to footscray every week for food shopping n the demolition is news to me.

    Banh cuon at Dinh Son Quan is good but that's not the way it should be done. They fried it instead of steaming it. At Dong Que(opposite Footscray market) they also have banh cuon that steam and other traditional VN food like Banh Dap or Cha Ca Thang Long , they nice but abit pricey compair to other shop around there. I personally like Thien An(near train station) they have good food n big serve ;)

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    1. Anon, thank you so much for this wonderful tip! I love Dong Que - it's one of my all time faves. The Cha Ca Thang Long (turmeric fish with dill) is great there and I will definitely check out their banh cuon and banh dap soon. I am also mildly addicted to their banh bot chien...OMG...so good!

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    2. I'll try out their banh bot chien next time i go. They have banh xeo which smell great but i havent try it yet so not sure. Next door to Dong Que is the chinese clay pot rice. It pretty good as well.

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    3. I've eaten Banh Cuon at Dinh Son Quan many many times and I really can't see how it is fried.
      I'll try and sneak a peek in the kitchen next time to be sure.

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    4. Andy, I have seen them making it in a frying pan like a very very thin crepe. Or maybe they buy the sheets ready steamed and heat them up in the pan? All I know is I LOVE IT!

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    5. OK I really have to check them out being made now. If they're fried then I reckon I can make them at home.

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    6. Andy, I found this! http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/305892

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    7. Thanks for this Lauren. I also just bought a Hanoi Street Food book which also says they are supposed to be steamed but are commonly fried these days. So much to learn...

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  16. U can do it at home. Just buy the flour ready mix. But it not as good as their cuz the flour r from VN n it design for steam pot not fry. Plus when u do it at home u have to make the sauce n shallot to go with it or else eating it by it self is not that interesting.

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  17. Hi, can you please provide any information about location of Konjo cafe? Thanks, Emma

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    1. Hi Emma, sorry, your comment got stuck in my 'in moderation' queue! Konjo is just on Irving between Albert and Nicholson, just a few doors down from Lalibela. That strip of shops are really struggling at the moment apparently due to all the roadworks and the big, imposing blue fence - not many customers are stopping in. I hope to go there for a meal soon, but if you get there first let me know how it is!

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