Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Bulgogi Express - Korean in Footscray

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My friend firmly believes that the windswept strip of shops at the corner of Gordon Street and Ballarat Road, remarkable for its Pizza Hut and long-shuttered doctor's surgery, is the next big thing.  I wasn't so sure.  However, the revelation of Bulgogi Express' homestyle Korean menu could be the turning point the strip is looking for.


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This shop has a curious history, and I've never been quite sure if it was a public restaurant or a dining hall of sorts.  Ian gave me the hot tip on the FFB Facebook page, enticingly describing bibimbap and bulgogi grilled tableside.


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Bulgogi Express now has new owners (only for the last three weeks at time of writing) and while there's no more tabletop bulgogi action, there is a simple and enticing menu of homely Korean fare.


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The restaurant has a contract to feed Korean students at Vic Uni, and while we ate two separate groups came in, flung their bags dow and began raiding the slow cookers and bowls of kim chi at the back of the restaurant like adults coming back to mum's house and rifling through the pantry for snacks (not that I would do that!)


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Japchae, $10

Japchae is a dish made from chewy, clear noodles made with sweet potato flour.  Often it can descend into glugginess, but this version was awesome - the noodles still springy, not at all soggy, aromatic with sesame oil and entwined with beef and vegies.  YUM.


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Beef bulgogi, $10

Top points for value here with a heaping serving of wafer-thin, well-marinated beef cosying up to white rice.  I preferred the lighter flavours of the japchae, though - the very sweet beef got a bit much over time.

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Korean-style ramen and rice, $10

Normal people would be quite sated at this point but greedily we wanted more...until I was faced with my nemesis, plastic cheese!  Korean cuisine has co-opted some elements of the Western pantry, particualrly in the dish budae jjigae or "army base stew"- an (IMHO) nauseating combination of instant ramen, frankfurters, Spam, plastic cheese and baked beans.  It's a favourite of Melbourne blogger The Quince Poacher, who fondly calls it "a seven year old's dream dish".  Underneath the cheese this dish was quite good, with large jiao zi-style dumpling, springy instant noodles, kind of thick, starchy discs and broth with a good chilli hit but I couldn't get past the fromage au plastique.  Not doubting its authenticity though!

With lovely, friendly service and all the tropes of a good budget restaurant including a single-page, handwritten menu, chattering telly in the corner and only one drink on offer - Coke, $2 - Bulgogi Express is definitely worth checking out.  Save some japchae for me!

Bulgogi Express
203 Ballarat Road, Footscray (shop is on Gordon Street)
Hours:  Daily noon-3pm, 5-9pm


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12 comments:

  1. Yes instant noodles is a bit wrong! But I like the fact that its called Army Base stew - that explains the fromage au plastique as you call it. That stretch of shops does seem a little down and out doesn't it? But I have high hopes that at some point in time something will give and it will thrive.

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    1. Soon, my pretties, soon... *rubs hands together* It will happen one day!

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  2. This is very good news. Such seeming potential ... yet the Indian place that used to be Southern Spice has closed, as has - I think - the mixed Asian/Korean BBQ place across the road. We had a good meal at the tiny Iraqi/Tukish place on the other side of Ballarat Rd called McKebab

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    1. Yep, that one (Rajsi) closed with all scary landlord signs in the window. Not sure if that Taste of Asia across the road has closed or just closed for lunch... It never really inspired me that much. Will have to try McKebab!

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  3. Spam is quite big in South Korea... my partner lived in Seoul for 5 years and says it features a lot on menus due to the American influence.

    We've eaten from here a couple of times in months past but were unimpressed with the quality. The spicing was not right and the quality of meat cuts was awful. But I hold out some hope since you say that new owners have been there for only a few weeks... deserves another try :)

    The cutest thing about this restaurant (although maybe this has changed with the new owners) was that they had a kitchen garden of parilla and other leaves in polystyrene containers out in the rear carpark behind the shops!

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    1. YES THEY STILL HAVE THAT! Just as I was driving off I saw the "kitchen garden" on top of the wheelie bins (chortle) and thought "I wonder what that is?" Bugger re past experiences... Maybe given 'em another shot, at least for the jap chae. Yummy.

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  4. We've been before as it's so close to our home but it was pretty ordinary. That was a while ago and I was eyeing it off as I waited at the lights today thinking it was about time we gave it another go.

    Bec

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    1. Ooh that's no good Bec. Maybe one last shot is warranted?

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  5. Went there a while ago and the (previous?) owner was very friendly but hardly spoke any English. The beef bulgogi was a bit tough to our liking but we may give it another chance one of these days when we feel like Korean and are too lazy to drive further.

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    1. I reckon it's changed with the owners... The bulgogi definitely wasn't tough this time, but it was very rich and sweet.

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  6. Oh man this is perfect. So true and authentic with a homey feel. Love that the menu is handwritten too and easy $10 for everything. I know what you mean about the Army Stew. Don't hate me but I love it too HAHA. Sry, just can't resist. Kid at heart. But glad to hear your meal was enjoyable. Love that they cater to the students too. Good stuff

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    1. Hi Winston! Yes, it was lovely to see all the students piling in and out. At one stage a big group came in, started tucking in to the soup and kim chi, and then the lady came out from the kitchen with an enormous pot that she plopped down in the middle and everyone started helping themselves. It must be lonely in Australia as a student far away from home, but it seems like here they can get a "taste of home" in every sense.

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