Nhu Lan is arguably the most popular of Footscray's Vietnamese bakeries. However, Ba Le, tucked up Leeds St, has its loyal and devoted fans. Like many Footscray shops, it has a split identity. One third sells different types of Vietnamese ham, the middle portion sells banh mi, and the last section sells bubble tea. This is a common theme in Footscray. Take the shop in Barkly St that does money transfers and photos, or the other one that does DVDs and bubble tea. So what, you say - maybe you want to send your rellies a family photo as well as some cash? Or grab a taro milk tea while you browse the latest releases? Well, what say you about the place on Paisley that sells orchids along with bongs?
Ba Le's opening move was the chicken and onion roll. Juicy pieces of chicken with sautéed onion in a very light, stock-based glaze. Very nice.
Next, I wanted to try xiu mai. As Phil of The Last Appetite points out, xiu mai is a sort of Vietnamese interpretation of the Cantonese yum cha favourite, siu mai, in that they are pork dumplings but sans wrapper. Unfortunately, banh mi xiu mai got a massive FAIL from this fan. I expected a bouncy texture, like that of siu mai dumplings, but what I got was mincemeat - a banh mi burger. I am sure this is authentic, but not at all what I felt like.
Lastly (no, I did not eat all of these on the same day!!!) what was described as "roast pork" - I thought it was the cha lua (Vietnamese ham or bologna) that the other side of the shop sells, but the server said that it was not. At any rate, this banh mi was filled with rectangles of a sweet, springy, tasty pork loaf - somewhat like chao tom or "sugarcane prawns", the light, chewy prawn paste molded on sugarcane and then grilled.
The battle is being waged... Both opponents charge, fists outstretched for a power pâté punch. Ba Le reels from Nhu Lan's superior strength. Ba Le recovers and executes a meaty manoeuvre, but Nhu Lan parries his blow. Ba Le is stunned and fails to avoid Nhu Lan's simple yet killer move, the "cucumber screwdriver". The match is over! Nhu Lan reigns supreme!
Ahem... sorry, I got a bit carried away there. In translation, I really think Ba Le is more about the meat than the salad. Their rolls are much meatier, which is not to say that Nhu Lan's are not - rather, Nhu Lan's salad is much better. It is crispier and more flavoursome. I also am not a fan of Ba Le's pâté; it is an odd pink colour and has a particular taste I am not keen on. Nevertheless, Ba Le's rolls are a bargain at $3, and I believe you can have any combination of meats for the same price. One time I was in there, a man was getting a sandwich with a little bit of each filling - a Meatlover's banh mi, if you will. Now there's a lunch I would be happy to wrestle with.
Ba Le
Shop 3, 28A Leeds St, Footscray (map)
Phone: 9687 2985
Hahaha I love this post! I'm yet to try Ba Le, but any place that does a mean banh mi xiu mai is on my list of things to do. And yes, you're right, Vietnamese xiu mai should be more like mince than a dumpling filling. It should be melty and soft, as I'm sure there's a fair amount of 'filler' or flour in the mince mixture, and it's also probably been processed to within an inch of its life. But that's what I love about it!
ReplyDeleteI'm thinking we might need to do a F-R-S banh mi blind taste testing at some stage? Which suburb will reign supreme?
Thank you!! No, I am not a xiu mai fan, I don't think.
ReplyDeleteBlind banh mi testing sounds fantastic! Footscray needs to reclaim its crown, after its disappointing balut effort.
Ah Nhu Lan. I've been in your hood over the few weeks at Sapa Hills. After lunch, we would always get at least 2 mixed ham rolls at Bhu Lan. The corner bakery a few shops down (forgot the name) used to be my fav before the Nhu Lan chain hit town.
ReplyDeleteI'm always a bit apprehensive about places that split up their services (jack of all trades, master of none that kinda thinking). But I do love my meat so this sounds right up my alley :)
ReplyDeleteHi Adrian - two mixed ham rolls!! After lunch!! The dual-stomached one strikes again... or should that be multi-stomached?!
ReplyDeleteHi Vee - I know what you mean. I wonder if the shops with split up services are run by different people in the one shop, though, or if they are indeed run by the one person, IKWIM?
Seriously hooked on these rolls.....
ReplyDeleteThey should banh mi from entering the store....
Ha ha! This made me laugh out loud. Always a sucker for a good pun.
ReplyDeleteI do believe the Nhu Lan bakery has been around much longer than the corner bakery. I'm about 90% sure its still the same owners, they've just jazzed up the decor and branding etc. And prices. I remember it used to be $1 for 6 rolls! We'd always get them fresh and hot at just before 11am, just as they got poured onto those big white baskets. They'd be so hot that the plastic bags would be on the verge of melting!
ReplyDeleteIn fact, I remember watching that corner bakery open its doors for the first time. Never really did much for me though.
Ps. Ms Baklover, the street you're talking is actually Hopkins Street (Barkly Street only goes up to that corner pub.. royal hotel?)
Also..split identity shops. Some are run by different people, some are by the same :) Nice and vague for you!
Hi Pete! You know, I don't know what corner bakery you and Adrian mean? Has it shut down?
ReplyDeleteI love the image of the melting plastic bag!! I have had rolls there where the poor women stuffing them are trying to manoeuvre two sets of tongs, as they literally just came out of the oven.
And thanks, it is indeed Hopkins. Split identity street!
Ba Le all the way!! Besides which they also sell fantastic fish cakes! I am loving your blog by the way. I can't believe that I've only just discovered it!
ReplyDeleteHi Temasek - thanks for the support! I just discovered their fish cakes last weekend! So delicious. Apparently they will make a special banh mi with fish cake.
ReplyDeleteOh and BTW, Adrian & Pete, I have worked out that the "corner bakery" is To's. Haven't sampled them yet, so they are next on the list!
ReplyDeletei just stumbled across your banh mi battle! while i agree nhu lan is the more popular, ba le is UNMATCHED for it's "banh mi cha com" i HIGHLY recommend trying it next time, could change your mind forever... :)
ReplyDeleteOoh mai linh, thanks for the tip! I know com is rice and cha is sausage? Hmm! I will be sure to check it out. They are anti-photo is the only problem. Mr Baklover is also now anti-Nhu Lan now as he thinks they are getting stingy with the fillings (I personally think it depends on who you get to make your roll) so we will give Ba Le another go soon.
ReplyDeleteMai Linh, I tried it! The cha com dia or pork and sticky rice cake? It was really good but almost overgenerous with meat! I still think Ba Le's pate lets them down though. Nevertheless I would love to try more of the "cha" loaves and sausages they sell.
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